Відео

I made a 30 watt TWreck type and it's a monster, but a load box and some Jenson Alniocos helped tame it and it's pure joy. I had the same issue with it not liking pedals but remedied that.

think its a Laney Lc15

KEEP THAT AMP BROTHER!!!....Wooooooooo Lawddddddd!!!!!!!!

Boy, what a mess!

What tunning is this gutair? E to E?

Behringer clearly produces more noise with electric guitar

I have similar dilemma. Have a hand built TW Express clone. I dont use it often but its such a unique beast that I don't think I could sell it.

😄 I had to subscribe when I saw that amp chasis !!

what is the schematic on xlr connector? what is the capacitor does?

Please if I ever start a company, don't advertise for me. UGH !!!!

Thanks for the schematic mate

I just can’t. This to much miss information. Can’t spend day correcting it.

Not even 6 minutes in and have to comment already. Those arrows are making contact. Hence when you plug in the input 2 1M Ohm resistor is not in the circuit. It is shorted out by the grounding input jack. So, Input 2 has only 68K Ohm to the ground. That’s low impedance input and lot of signal is sent to the ground. That is the reason why it is less loud channel. No splinters there no voltage dividers.

Thanks , good video 👍🏼

What pots values are you using?

Awesome build, where can I get a copy of the schematic?

I think the DIY kit guitar sounds great. I have a Harley Benton strat kit it cost me £69. I wish I bought a Fezley strat kit maybe I will get one sometime.

This may be investigated for inclusion into my Pro Reverb.....

I have a Blues Junior III and I've always found it too bright especially when used with overdrive pedals which can give you a harsh sound. I'm planning to clip the C3 bright cap as you suggest. Thanks again for some useful and well explained information!

Great video! Thanks so much for sharing this useful information!

Personally, I’m all about solid state rectified amps. It’s why I love the old big Fender piggy back amps, i.e. Bassman, Showman, Bandmaster, etc. They all have solid state rectifier. I understand people play a lot of lead guitar, bluesier stuff, prefer tube rectified because it’s softer and squishier. But i strictly play rhythm guitar, often with the amp turned up a lot. For that kind of rock rhythm guitar, I find solid state rectified to feel and sound better. It’s got slightly tighter low end, and it’s a more direct sound/feel.

This is awesome and I have questions... Do you think you could stack these, perhaps in series, to effectively have 4 gain stages? If so how so? Also, if I just use one and If I add a tone stack between the gain stages (treble, mids, bass and presence), where would be the best place to put a gain pot? TIA

My LTSpice simulation suggests 7n cap creates tube screamer like frequency response (i.e hump at 1300hz) on typical 6500 ohm single coil. Resistor is just like Kley said. In sim case 500k vol pot pairs well with 250k resistor saving 6db lows. That would be the cheapest and easiest way to feed TS response in to a distorted tube amp. Those values are in very low volume - say at 0.2 of the range. The thing seems to be to find values (and corresponding volume pot position )which also start to cut the higest ice peak. It means that the some of the high roll of should be effective and it will with very low volume position.

Nice playing but can you stop eating? :'))

I bought a few of these cheapies hoping to do what you did here.

oboy was this complicated

Hi, I wonder if it is good enough for small performance on the stage. I'm going to use Taylor big baby with this pickup. I'm going to play strumming. There will be about 60 audiences. Not very professional performance but I want my guitar sound good enough. Would you reommend this pickup for this condition?

Baby was not impressed with the variable resistor mod. 😊

Surprised to say I liked the Champ the best

So, I bought one of these right when they came out. I got the sunburst model. I already have an es335 and an es135, but I thought, "what the hell, why not see what it's like." What it was like was much the same as you found. Needed a new nut, new tuners, complete fret level and crown, the finish was horrible with buffing burns and lots of buffing compound in all the nooks and crannies. I even replaced the trapeze tail piece with a better Birdland style, as I had one in the parts bin. I also ended up replacing all the electronics from the parts bin. The pups are from a Japanese made Gibson Orville Les Paul and the wiring harness is from an Epiphone Les Paul Standard, so it has pickup switching now, as well. How did it turn out? It's a very playable guitar now but not my first choice. One other niggle is that the center block is very rough cut with no finishing at all and there is NO kerfing where the top and bottom join the sides. Don't know what that holds as far as durability goes. I suppose I could add some at some point, through the F holes if I had too. But buyer beware on this one. If you can do the work yourself, (and I can having built guitars for 40 years), you can make it into a usable guitar. That is if you can find a used one as Glarry got so many complaints on it that they discontinued this model. You might be better off with a Firefly or Grote, a Harley Benton or even an Ibanez Artcore if you have the budget.

Great video. I've been trying to track down an issue I'm having with my Stage Right 15R (single input jack). After a year of using it, a tube went bad. For some reason, I had all of the tubes out at the time I put the new one in. At that time, I accidentally put the tubes in wrong -- the EL84s went into slots V1 & V2 instead of V4 & V5. There was a loud bang and the buzzing started. The sound of the buzz gets louder when I turn the volume up. Based on your video, would I be correct to assume the issue is in the pre-amp stage? Also, in your opinion, did I blow a capacitor, or would this be a tube issue?

When these came out you could score a far superior USED U.S. made CRATE V16 Palomino for about $50 more. Even worth the $300 people ask all day long. The V16 and V32 Crates were designed by the same guy that designed X? model Magnetone amps now. The V16 is a Class-A push/pull, 2-6BQ5/ EL84 , 3- 12AX7, 1-8-pin IC for the Spring Reverb, full size through hole component PC Board, good size transformers, 5-layer heavy plywood, steel gold anodized vent plate, corner guards, V16 badge, name plate. Dress screwed down Wicker Grill cover with gold piping. Beige tolex, heavy duty stitched beige leatherette handle, gold anodized steel (Telecaster) knurled knobs ( Although I swapped mine out with Marshall knobs, looks sweet). Celestion 12" 70/80 Speaker (under the Crate sticker...quality sticker you can peel off and put back, or even stick it on say a Green Back Celestion if you so desire. Since the V16 Palomino tends to break up too soon due to it's multiple gain stages, it's advantageous to simply remove one stage, See- *The definitive Crate V1512, Palomino V16 Cleanup Mod for less than a buck* Due to the amps high vibration, instead of a pair of EL84's use the ( actually great prices) NOS Russian 6P14P crossover tube that have the Vibration Proof code at the end. So 6P14P-V ( or K or R). If you are a clean or semi-clean blues player then non vibration tubes should be fine. And don't let the 6P14P's 8volt heater requirement bother you, the 6v is perfectly fine. Heck, EVH had his heaters at like 3v. Wampler channel had a great Crate V16 Palomino video recently - *Breathing new life into this old tube amp, the Palomino V16 from Crate* . Better grab one while you can. These popular guys always spike prices when they demo something. I'm just a nobody.

I have this master on a 5f4 tweed super and don’t find it very useful. Nice to chance a few dabs off, but messes with your negative feedback and not good for getting crunch at bedroom volumes.

On the type 3, I like to use a switchable 250k pot. Pull for the master volume and push in and it’s out of the circuit. Lar mar master so far is my favorite, have not tried the rich mod II master yet.

Are you still modding blues juniors? I just got one and am looking for someone to improve the overall quality.

Please do more of these pedal schematic analysises, yours are the best on UA-cam. Catalinbread Formula 55 would be nice, for example.

Will it work more better and sound like more electric when i use electric guitar strings on acoustic guitar

I hope you kept it.

My fuzz got spitty and then stopped passing sound altogether. It was a glorious sound but now its dead. Could it be overheated? Uts got germanium diodes. I'm waiting for it to cool off

Hi, Please draw a probe schematic and wire connection in the demonstration. Thank you

Then...... You are not building a Dumble!

Please check out a Mosky ISO 10 and some cheap zip ties.

If you're curious as to how this board sounded live, I did record the gig and have posted it on my second channel - ua-cam.com/play/PL6C_EZJ-2XUnqrG-aRXEmWDETg6Yz8ub3.html&si=ninqQxOHdLQlRyIs

something interesting to note is that, initially at least, this was not a bass guitar amp. It was intended mainly for upright bassists. I have used one for that purpose and they work much better than many modern bass guitar amplifiers.

is this the same for the Princeton reverb?

sounds good to me.

what 's wrong with your mouth?

Love your video, Kley! Can I get a copy of the schematic used in your video?

It sounded good!

Sounds fantastic. Just got a pair of these mics.